Reds, Whites, and Friendliness Swirl at Local ‘Gathering Place’

By Marta Lindsey

As someone whose wine rack consists mostly of bottles grabbed off nearby shelves while standing in line at Trader Joe’s, I didn’t expect a trendy looking wine shop to win me over. But the fun vibe at Swirl (572 Castro St. between 18th and 19th streets) combined with a selection of wines you can feel good about buying had me discovering my inner oenophile.
Jerry Cooper, who opened the shop a year and a half ago with his partner, has clearly established friendliness as an order of business.
“I wanted Swirl to have the ambiance of a restaurant – very non-intimidating,” said Cooper. “It’s become a gathering place – 80 percent of our customers are local.”
Michael Volpatt, a neighbor and self-professed regular, calls Swirl his living room.
Although there are no couches at Swirl, there is a small wine bar and a few tables in the back of the shop where you can order wine by the glass or try a flight of three featured wines for $9.75. This is where Swirl hosts it weekly tasting events, with themes ranging from “a tour of Spain” to “pinot envy.”
“The pinot noir craze is real,” said Cooper. “It’s always a safe bet when you don’t know what people drink, and it’s really versatile with food.”
Having spent 10 years on the San Francisco Chronicle’s wine tasting panel, he should know. But Cooper chooses the wines at Swirl based on more than just taste, seeking out small, family-owned, sustainable wineries.
“We want to be as green as possible,” said Cooper. In order to reduce energy use, Swirl keeps a limited amount of refrigerated wine. Instead, the store has a machine that chills bottles in just six minutes when a customer wants something cold.
Cooper also always has at least one wine from which a portion of the profits are given to charity. A 50/50 blend of syrah and cabernet sauvignon, called “2 Brothers 2005 Big Tattoo Red,” is the current one, benefiting breast cancer-related charities.
The Castro neighborhood’s proclivity for celebration is reflected in Swirl’s most popular wines.
“Most people forget how good sparkling wines are,” said Cooper. Top sellers at Swirl include Gruet’s brut rosé from Engle, New Mexico, as well as M. Lawrence’s brut rosé from Suttons Bay, Michigan, called “Sex.”
In the non-bubbly categories, Alois Lageder’s pinot blanc from Alto Adige, Italy called “Haberlehoff” and Pacific Oasis’ pinot noir from Santa Barbara are consistent sellers.
Categories are part of Cooper’s strategy to get people to break out of what they traditionally drink. Instead of organizing wines by their grape variety or place of production, you’ll find wines in the categories of “substantial whites,” “fresh aromatic whites and rosés,” “subtle but dazzling red,” “big robust reds,” “splurge,” and “bubbles, bubbles, and more bubbles.”
Cooper has his own favorite wineries: Peju Province Winery, Chateau Montelena Winery, Storybook Mountain Vineyards, and Schramsberg Vineyards, all in Napa Valley. All come highly recommended by Cooper.
Beyond wine, Swirl has a range of the latest spirits and Belgium beers.
“I live in a perpetual party,” said Cooper.
And you’re invited.

Swirl is located at 572 Castro St., between 18th and 19th streets. 864-2262, swirloncastro.com

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