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San Francisco, California
September 2009 |
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Courtney's Turns 40: A Blue-Collar Favorite
By Emma Hall Through both prosperous and difficult times, Courtney’s Produce on the corner of Castro and 14th streets has been providing the Castro area with affordable flowers, homemade sandwiches and fresh juice for the last 40 years and continues to hang on as a staple for neighborhood patrons. Although the prices of ingredients are going up, owners Lola and Patrick Courtney are determined to keep their prices low and have even earned local fame for their $1.50 “PB&J” sandwiches. They started out making only 10 sandwiches a day, and now that number has increased to over 300. “We make our sandwiches for working class people,” said Lola. Lola and her husband Patrick, a Korean War veteran, moved into the top floor of the building 40 years ago and opened up their store downstairs a few months later. In its early years, customers would come into the corner store expecting to find beer and liquor, only to be disappointed when they found organic breads and milk instead. Now, there are many loyal customers who have been faithfully patronizing it for years, some even coming all the way from the East Bay and Marin. While the owners struggle to keep food prices low, costs of rent and other bills are steadily rising. The Courtneys started out paying $165 in rent and now pay almost $5,000 a month. Their water bill has also skyrocketed, even though they never water down their juices and try to conserve as much as possible. These bills have started to complicate their relationship with their landlord, whom the Courtneys feel has too much control and with whom they still do not have a lease. “Some people think it is about the money, not about service,” said Patrick. The store opens at 5 am and closes around 8 pm everyday. Each morning Courtney and Patrick venture to local markets to get their flowers and fresh produce. “We buy the best there is and try to sell it at an affordable price,” said Lola. Lola is in charge of doing the ledger and paperwork, while Patrick buys the produce. His 40 years in the business have made him a deft barterer, which helps to keep the prices at Courtney’s down. Even though they try to keep prices affordable for their customers, sometimes customers still turn to drastic measures. People have been banned for stealing, and Lola and Patrick have had to deal with more than their share of drunks. One year, the cash-only establishment experienced 22 holdups. Lola has had a gun to her neck, and had knives pulled on her many times. Once, as three robbers were running away, she ran after them, throwing apples at them the entire way. This is where their good relationship with the local police force comes in handy. Photos of Patrick with policemen are proudly displayed on the wall. “We always give the firemen and policemen free sandwiches,” said Lola. “I just tell them that one day you may save my life, so this is my appreciation ahead of time.” Now that Lola and Patrick are 70 and 81 respectively, they are starting to think about turning over the business to their seven loyal workers. Paul Xie has been working at the store for 17 years, ever since he moved to America from China, and now manages the store. “We aren’t going to retire until we are confident the store can be handled without us,” said Lola. But after 40 years of hard work serving the community, Patrick said his house in Ireland is starting to sound more appealing.
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