Seafood Abounds and Dazzles at Catch

By Bill Sywak

Have you ever walked past Catch on Market Street and seen the outside tables and the inside cafe with its round fireplace and diners having lunch or more?

If you never ventured inside, you are in for a whole new world of comfortable hospitality, creative drinks at the smart and colorful bar, and assured handling of creative seafood dishes.

Inside, two large pieces of contemporary art – and a piano with pianist attached – are suspended halfway up the corner wall, lending an intimate feel to the bustling yet restrained culinary business below.

The courteous and knowledgeable waiters guide diners through the menu choices and point out some patron pleasers and special items. Two outstanding starters are grilled artichokes with an astoundingly zestful and fresh lemon pepper aioli and, if you’re comfort-minded, a mound of french fries infused with herbs, parmigiano reggiano and a white truffle aioli.

While it is possible to get a few meat dishes at Catch, the true measure of a seafood restaurant, of course, is what it does with the fresh-caught bounty from the sea.

For my money, the delightful lobster bisque with succulent, fresh Dungeness crab and crème fraiche is the perfect way to experience the complementary tastes of crab and lobster before lunch or dinner. For entrees, Catch’s seafood stew is a skillful medley of mussels, clams, shrimp, scallops, crab and fish – all-in-all a consistent audience pleaser and signature selection.

Another special main course is the mixed seafood grill with a generous cannelloni bean and frisee salad, blue cheese and panchetta vinaigrette.

The curious diner at Catch would do well to try the various specials. One night it was my good fortune to enjoy the fruitti de mare confection: delicate mussels filled with flavored risotto and crunchy miniature vegetables ringed the sculpted blue plate with seared, medium-size Atlantic scallops. Inside the circle sat an aromatic mountain of saffron risotto hiding small shrimp here and there. Truly a magnificent creation for the seafood lover.

Caveats to this enthusiastic description include the need to request bread separately (and not a special loaf at that, though warm); a lunch menu that was not nearly as interesting as the dinner fare, and fried oysters that deserved better treatment.

Otherwise, the staff and smart décor are tops, the seafood prepared with great care and knowledgeable attention, and the atmosphere a pleasure to experience.

Catch is located at 2362 Market St. near Castro Street, 431-5000, catchsf.com
• Open lunch: Mon.–Fri., 11:30 a.m. – 3 p.m., Dinner: Sun.–Tue., 5:30 – 9:30 p.m., Wed.-Thu., 5:30 – 10 p.m., Fri.-Sat., 5:30 – 11 p.m. Brunch: Sat.-Sun., 11 a.m. – 3:30 p.m

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